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TD-   H Lauper and M Liniger, 26 July 1921

76    A fairly interesting climb; the rock changes from granite to limestone to

gneiss as the ridge is ascended. It becomes progressively steeper as it

approaches the Wsummit and some of the rock is loose.

From the Schmadri hut get onto the start of the ridge (large granite

blocks) and climb easily to Pt 2746m. Continue up the steeper crest

(limestone) and then snow to a step (gneiss) which is climbed on the

crest. The final and steepest section of the ridge can be climbed

direct (IV+) by a smooth wall a few metres R of the crest to a small

platform. From here rejoin the crest by slanting up L in cracks and

chimneys. The alternative is to traverse La little onto the N face

and get back onto the crest via a chimney/couloir. A succession of

short steps lead to the W summit. 7hr



TD    Although infrequently climbed the rock is good. In descent several abseils

76    are necessary.

From the W summit turn a rock spike on the S side and reach a gap

below a vertical step. Climb 30m slanting R on the S side (III) to a

sloping belay (piton) below a 25m high vertical wall. Start up the

wall (V, pitons) then traverse L to a diedre which is followed

(pi-tons) until it can be left on the L to reach a flat belay on the ridge

crest below another vertical step (abseil piton). Climb less steep

rock on the N side then follow the exposed crest (III) to the final

snow crest. 2hr




TD+   K Grater and F Villiger, 6 July 1962

76    The difficulties on the route depend mainly on the amount of ice build-up

on the rocks. In lean conditions the route is quite unsafe.

From the Schmadrihut follow Route 187 until at about half-height

on the N face. Now climb steep snow/ice and the rocks above fairly

directly to the summit. It is also possible to follow a line further to

the W. 10-15hr



TD    W Welzenbach, A Drexel, H Rudy and E Schulze, 25-27 July 1932.

76    Winter: H von Klinel and H Miller, 2 Jan 1970.

Direct finish: E Koblmilller and E Lackner, July 1971.

Route described: E Feuz, W von Allmen, 8-9 July 1934

The route described is more direct than the original Welzenbach route and

is more frequently climbed. The route is essentially an ice climb of fairly

constant angle but with two steeper pitches (550-600), and is relatively

safe. There is a direct finish, and some other options which can be taken

according to conditions. On 27July 1959 K Diemberger and M Eiselin

climbed the face by a line further E.

From the Schmadrihut climb E up the Vordre Schmadri glacier to

the steep narrow glacier at the foot of the face. Climb the glacier

slope (often several bergschrunds which can be avoided by rocks on

the L at II-III) to reach the shallow ice couloir descending from the

summit. Climb this until below a rock barrier at about 3200m. Pass

this by a traverse L in an icy gully (steep). Now, close to the rocks,

reach the upper ice slope and climb this to the summit rock wall.

Keep L of this and, still on ice, reach the summit. 8-15hr


Jegichnubel l3124.Im


This minor summit offers the possibility of some entertainment

when higher summits are out of condition. It is quite easily reached

from Fafleralp. The N ridge is D, quite exposed and with some

doubtful rock. The SE ridge is PD and well worth climbing, whilst

the SW ridge is AD and highly recommended (some III+).

Approach all the routes via Route 176. For the SW ridge

climb up the coombe between the SW and SE ridges and join the

ridge at a point E of the snow patch under the S face, by a tricky

couloir. Allow 5-6hr from Fafleralp for all the routes.


Schmadrijoch 3337.5m


First traverse: J Hornby, F Morshead and T Philpott with

J Anderegg and C Lauener, 4 Aug 1866

Of no great value as a pass but it provides a means of descent for

routes on the Grosshorn N face, access to the W ridge of this

mountain and to the NE ridge of the Breithorn.





77    From the Schmadri hut climb the latera1moraine on the E side of

the glacier which descends W of the hut (Hindre Schmadri glacier),

until it is possible to walk onto the glacier. Climb S towards the

lowest rock outcrop. Go up a steep snow slope to the R of this and L

of a curving rock rib, and then up rocks to avoid the sieracs of the

upper branch of the glacier. Continue by climbing part way up an

icy couloir between the rocks and the s6rac barrier before quitting

this for the rocks on the L which lead to the less steep upper part of

the glacier. Reach the col by moving R. 4hr

It is sometimes possible to move R before the icy couloir and

climb steep snow slopes further W.




From Fafleralp follow the path from Guggistafel to Pt 2108m. Now

climb N up the valley and at about 2200m go up a couloir, then

brocken rocks, to reach scree slopes below the W flank of

Jegichnubel. Climb up parallel to the base of the rocks of the

Jegichnubel until above the rock island sited below the W side of

Zem hindri Ligg. Now traverse the glacier NW to the col. 5-6hr



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